Thursday, October 13, 2016

Pomaranczowa Alternatywa- The Orange Alternative- Protest, baby.

I have mentioned in my previous Polish blogs my admiration for the Polish people. They have demonstrated incredible resilience and determination in the recovery from the occupations and atrocities of the last century. One of the incredible stories of this strength is the "Orange Alternative" po polsku "Pomaranczowa Alternatywa".
When Germany lost World War II, and, I don't pretend to understand how exactly this happens, but instead of making Poland Poland again, the country was given to the Soviets. This isn't a blog about that in particular, but I still don't get it.
Anyhoo, the Polish people had the heap of atrocities know as Nazis and then Stalinist Soviets from about 1939 until they eventually dropped the Soviet yoke in the late 1980s.  Wrocław, where we stayed in Poland was the site of a movement that helped lead to Poland as it is today. The movement was called the Orange Alternative, and was begun by a man named Waldemar Fydrych. As movements go, it was a pretty jolly one. One of the techniques instituted by Fydrych was to paint playful images over the painted-over anti-Soviet graffiti. The idea was to point out the Soviet government's lack of competence and absent sense of humor.

 The images of gnomes, or dwarves started cropping up all around the city of Wrocław. And, the movement grew. "Happenings" began to be organized. These were gatherings that were meant to poke fun in a blameless type of way at the Soviet government. For instance, a "Happening" was to ridiculously overdress in Soviet Red on the anniversary of Russia's communist revolution. Or, a "Happening" was thrown where a large group gathered to sing Stalinist hymns to the chimpanzees at the zoo. Perhaps the most pointed ones were when they handed out scarce but basic items, like toilet paper or feminine hygiene products. A favorite and famous "Happening" was during a strike in 1988, where a letter was read aloud to the striking workers, supporting the strikes in strong words- written previously by Lenin.
All the "Happenings" were non-violent, and could be, on the surface, seen as Soviet support. All the while, the gnomes appeared all over the country.

 In 1988, on the anniversary of the Russian Revolution, over 10,000 people in Wrocław marched on the Nazi- built government seat, dressed in orange floppy dwarf hats and chanting "We Love Lenin".

This is my photo of the same building, taken from the Odra river. This building looks so Nazi, it's a propaganda poster in stone.

In 1989, Poland once again became Poland instead of Communist Poland.
But, in Wrocław, the gnomes live on. They have become a touristy past-time, hunting down the little statues that are tucked in here and there all over the city-centre. More arrive each year, I was told there are more than 400 now.

 Huz and I enjoyed looking for them, and in doing so, exploring the city more thoroughly.
 But I also loved how the "Just for Tourist" entertainment in art was tied so closely to the idea of poking fun at the Soviet government.



(Orange) Hats off to you, Pomaranczowa Alternatywa!

Monday, October 3, 2016

Let's talk about a Stud.

.If you're thinking "Not Again!" No, this time it isn't one of those talks.

 Currently, I am building nothing! So, not discussing stud walls.



 Or stud earrings.

 Or even shirt studs. Although I do find them interesting.
Not even this Stud:



This is about this kind of stud:

Stallions, kept specifically for breeding are called "Studs". And the place which houses a breeding stallion is also termed "A Stud". Although, the term does lend itself to a bit of grandeur."A Stud" seems to have a professional and purposeful element to it.
This particular blog is about a the beautiful Stud at Książ.

 When Huz and I arrived at Zamek Książ, and bought our tickets, there was some indication that for 10 more zlotych ($) we could also tour the Stajnie and the Palm House. So, we must.  And after our grand tour of the Zamek, we took a look at the primitive map on the back of our ticket, and headed off to the Stables. Kind of. Had we gone down the road leading to the castle, and through a park, we would eventually have found this sign above. Most helpful. But we did not. Instead, we went down a stair outside the castle gates that dwindled into a dirt path into the wood. And, then to a small track, past some ruins of some sort, and then what appeared to be a bus stop in the woods. But, we are map readers, and our map said the stables were this way.  At least, this direction.
Eventually we saw some grizzled, smoking bent over men, with one or two younger backs chatting at the back of a an old tudor-style building. We approached- obviously in the wrong place, but they pointed us through a gate and to another building on the other side of the courtyard in front of us. And thus we entered, through the workers entrance at Stajnie Zamkowa.
To see this:

 Oh yeah. This is delicious! 18th century barns full of horses. My happy place.
As I gaped, a fellow came out with a gorgeous horse to do some lunging in the huge arena in the center of the stable block. 



 Not all the horses in residence are breeding animals. There are also riding ones. Lots. And, yes, I wanted to ride too!

 All the buildings that make up the block are stables with these wonderful vaulted ceilings.

 These girls reminded me of my Pony Club kids, polishing boots and cleaning tack on the floor before getting on to ride. Polish Pony Club? Maybe. It would be pretty cool to have a Pony Club based out of a castle.
 Huz, gasping in astonishment at the accolades of this stud?

 I don't know what all the medals mean, but Lokan is a well decorated boy!

 The Stables is well known for the Stud, but also for driving and dressage, as well as jumping. On the castle property is a cross country course as well as a driving course.

 And this, dreamboat indoor arena. I sat on the observation deck and it felt like a church. Sigh.



 I even stalked the Polish Equestrian Team.

 These standing stalls were empty, but there was a man humming and giving them a good scrubbing. I loved his wooden chair. For comfy breaks?

A pair of matching blue roan ponies, presumably driving partners? came over to say hello as I walked through their stables. This one consented to taking a "selphie" together.

Thank you Książ, Stajnie Zamkowa for the horse "fix". Next time, I'll bring breeches and boots!