Vicenza, Italy. A Day Trip.

Ciao. It is a lovely, warm day in central Ohio, and a perfect opportunity to share memories of a beautiful day in northern Italy! 

As I've mentioned, when we are on these conference-centric trips, Huz heads off in the early hours to his lectures and lunches, and I head off to adventures. Works for me! I have managed to find great travel companions at times, and this day was rich with good company. 

 Steve and Matt, with whom I had walked the Verona bastions, and explored the Arsenal and Castelvecchio joined me again, and we were lucky enough to add a fourth in Shane. 

The crew looked to the cruise director and asked the plan. I didn't have one. But, I do like to get off the beaten track. I truly enjoy the big cities and famous places, but when I look back on these trips, often my favorite memories involve finding the smaller places, the quieter hamlets and discovering what they have to offer. 

So, a few words with the hotel reception desk, and we headed off to Porta Nuova Stazione and platform 3 to await the train to Vicenza. At the hotel, I had googled "Vicenza" and up popped some of the sights to be found in this small town between Verona and Venice. 

Aqueduct. Roman. Sold. I have never seen one, and I recall being fascinated by the idea of the Roman Aqueduct in middle school. I think I even made a model of an aqueduct in a single grade. 6th? Plus, hours spent playing with water and gravity in the Little River next to Puckihuddle- my childhood home, had me motivated to see the real deal. The location was Fogazarro... which may have been a bit vague for most adventurers, but we had time, and my companions were an engineer, a roofing and guttering specialist and a general contractor/pilot. So, my sell didn't have to be hard. Basically, I said "Vicenza has an aqueduct."

We arrived in Vicenza and headed in the direction that seemed to lead to town. 

 On the way we found a helpful map. It did not list our quarry-the aquaduct, but we found a Corso Fogazarro, and headed north as indicated. To the east was the obvious entrance, through a formidable wall and tower into the town, but we headed through these lovely gates instead to a green space. 

This lovely building over water, so quiet and peaceful was in a garden, the Park Giardino Salvi. 

Quite fine. But, it is not an aqueduct. 

We headed out of the park and into town north of the gardens. Finding Fogazzaro. We headed out in search of Roman delights. 

 In front of the Parrochia di Santa Croce ai Carmini was an assembly of well dressed people. It appeared as if we had happened upon a wedding! So, we searched the crowd for the bride and groom, and couldn't definitively identify a groom- there were several possible candidates, but no apparent bride. Until a flash of white down the street caught my attention and I pointed it out to my companions. A bride, facing a gent who was pulling the veil over her face. Could we have just happened upon a father about to walk his daughter to the church? The aqueduct has been here for 1000 years, and can wait!

And, here comes the bride! But, unusually, her stride is quite, long. And she is very tall. And she is wearing rather large trainers. And, as she gets near us, she has an impressive amount of facial scruff. My friends, that is a dude. Maybe we are at a gay wedding? Not expected, but still cool. As the bride was presented to the fellow we could now assume was the groom, the crowd response, and theatrical "kiss" and "dip" made it clear we were just witnessing the age old pastime of dudes everywhere. Taking the mick out of their buddy on his wedding day. Or, since this is Italy," far ridere i polli. "

 So, enough of this nonsense, we have an aqueduct to find. 

We walk up to the Rio Bacchiglione, and water seems like a logical place for an aqueduct?  Sure enough there is a ruin across the water. It doesn't look Roman... more medieval. Still, worth checking out. So, we find a bridge to cross and then into someone's back yard to get closer to this structure, deciding, nope. Not aqueductal. 

It is a cool portion of the medieval wall, with some serious Goldilocks and the Three Bears choices for entering and leaving. 

Consulting the map on cell phone says we are off track, and so make our way back to Fogazzaro. The wedding party is no longer in front of the church. And we are stumped in finding our aqueduct. Steve heads off to chat up a nun in the square to see if he can suss it out.

 I head into a pharmacy to ask the old gentleman behind the counter. "Dov'è l'aqueduct romano?" I say.  He replies that he's never heard of it. Hmmmm. So, I ask him " Avanti Corso Fogazzaro, c'è qualcoso di romano? 

Now, my Italian is terrible, but he is trying to understand. I ask "Parla inglese?" He does not. But he does not know "aqueduct." It is unclear to me if it is the word, as they may call them something else in Italian? Or, he knows what I mean, but has never heard of one here. He instead draws me a lovely map in shaky hand to the Piazza dei Signori. I want to stay and plague him more, as the shop is empty. But, it is about 120 degrees F in the shop, and smells strongly of camphor, and I must dash. So, I tell him, "Grazie mille!" and head back out into the street.

 Steve has not gotten anywhere with the nun. I tell my companions that a local thinks there is no aqueduct here. We may be out of luck.

So, we head down the sidewalk towards down town, feeling a failure. 

Until I stepped on this.

 A glass window in the sidewalk on Fogazzaro. We decide that it is a tad anticlimactic, but this is our aqueduct. When you pay to see the "Two Headed Boy!" at the sideshow, and it is a kid holding a puppet. 

But, undeterred, there is still much to see.

The very pretty Piazzo dei Signori is a great destination, thank you Signore old pharmacist guy! 

The dominant building in the Piazza is the Basilica Palladiana. In our wandering of Vicenza, we find that Palladia was an architect in the 16th century that held great fame. He designed many buildings in Vicenza, more here than in any other city. So, it is a World Heritage sight for Palladian buildings. Now, in the US, we have many buildings of the 1990s that feature Palladian windows...and as far as I know, World Heritage has yet to recognize us for this, but, whatever. 

My adventuring fellows note there are people on the roof. So, we head to the Basilica to see if we can join them. Plus, there are statues on the loggia roof that are intriguing. Especially the single statue on right, just shy of the corner, that appears to be wearing verdigris copper boots. I like the look, and am curious about the fashion choice. 

We pay a few euro for access to the second and third story views. 

Totally worth it. 

On the top story, we enter the wide marble terrace ringed by statues in various states of decay. And, I go in pursuit of my copper-booted pal, recognizing that boots would be impractical, as he's naked. And only an impractical fellow would protect his shins and let his bits lead the way. 

 It seems the copper was devised as a way to protect the statue from crumbling to the piazza below. 

In fact, most of the statues are reinforced in some way. And looking a bit rounded and pocked. 

I decided to take a panoramic photo, and my fellow travelers had a bit of fun with it. Speedy boys. (Do you see?)

We had a cappucino and un aqua frizzante at the rooftop cafe, and headed back to the piazza. 

In the square below are the now familiar tall columns we had seen in Verona, with the winged lion of Venice atop one. A bit shorter was this colorful creation, that looked to be painted wood? It also looked like it may have been temporary, brought out for a festival, perhaps. But is was so pretty, especially with the blue, orange, rose and yellows surrounding it. 

Our course was toward the other side of town, and the Teatro Olimpico. Not sure what it is, just that it seemed like a destination. Also, it was where the tourism office was located (as far as is possible from the train station and still be in the town- Perchè?)

We found the entrance marked " Teatro Olimpico" and walked into this courtyard, sort of a Roman yard sale. All around were bits and pieces of architectural detritus, a wonder to behold. A promenade around the courtyard yielded an inestimable opportunity to become an instant goddess. I said "YES!" 

Okay, maybe slightly out of proportion to my body, but hey, I'm the Goddess of...music and toilet paper? 

Steve (talks to everyone) stuck his head in a window and had a grand conversation with the man inside, and I tried to figure out how to get into this Teatro...which I assume is a theater. 

Finding the Tourism Office seemed the ticket ....to a ticket. And yes, that is correct. I also got a map of Vicenza to carry around- finally, and some words of wisdom about Andrea Palladio. Shane elected to join me in checking out the inside of the theater. Of all my traveling companions, Shane seemed to be the most concerned about my getting lost, or left behind. A fine trait in a traveling companion! 

Inside it was as hushed as a church. The theater seating was rounded to the stage, great hulking wooden risers with tiny little stairs to mark the aisles. The theater is still in use, and it seems that with your ticket, you find your seat by the red cushions they place on these wooden risers, each cushion marked with a seat number. But, with no performance happening, we just found ourselves a place on a wooden seat, polished by 450 years of hineys. 

The stage is elaborate, and looks like a Roman street. Three entrances to the front of the stage, one in center, one each side, are sloped and lined with buildings that get tinier as they recede. It is a beautiful piece of scenery. It is certainly possible, timing wise, that Shakespearean plays were hosted here when the theater was new. 

Have a seat. The orchestra is tuning up......

While we have been in the theater, although there is no actual orchestra, Mother Nature is tuning up outside, indeed to have a nice little thunderstorm. Our band decides to find lunch. The TO fellow recommends a vegetarian place near the main gates- on the other side of town- and we head off. Matt is likewise a vegetarian, so it isn't just for me. And, Steve and Shane are uncomplaining. Another fine trait in traveling companions. 

A brisk walk across town shows us our next "fail" for the day. No aqueduct, and the vege place is closed. 

By now, it is getting late for lunch and the rain is nearly here, so we just dash into the next open restaurant. I explain my eating limits to a doubtful waitress, and then ask for "Un piatto di formaggio?"  She looks a bit more optimistic with this and takes the orders of the fellows. As we start into our bottle of wine, the rain starts coming down outside, and the open window next to me bangs shut in the wind. 

I am delivered this plate of heaven. 

This is how you walk 9 miles a day and gain 2 pounds. 

The restaurant restroom was unisex with this little bit of stick figure humor...

As we finish our meal, the rain finishes too- very accommodating. 

We head back to the train and to Verona to the next EVDI dinner adventure! 

 Good traveling, guys! 

Lake Love- Going to Lake Garda, Italy

Lake.
This is a word full of potential. Also potential for disappointment. Huz and I have lived in some landlocked places (ex. Oklahoma) and the word "Lake" can conjure up visions of cool waters in quiet places, sun sparkles with sailboats in sunset and floating on your back- no sharks.

In the 23 years we have been married, we have periodically sought out "Lake".
For our 5th anniversary, we finally had enough financial security to have a weekend getaway. So, to an Oklahoman lake. It was different then- no Google Images, or TripAdvisor advice, and it was memorable, but not for the cool water or sunset sparkle. We did tour Har-Ber Village, an oddity that only exists in very small towns. And, Tod presented me with a ring- my first ring from him that was not a gold band. I treasure that ring still, and it was just refurbished this summer to glimmer on my ring finger anew.

And in Ohio, I packed the kids in the car on a hot summer day to go to "Lake". Found "Buckeye Lake"- I think. We couldn't see water, just the back side of houses. We did find some good pizza.

Some of my favorite vacations have been meeting up with members of our fun family for some days on a lake, finally getting in some shark-free floating in cool waters with pines dangling on the edges.

But in Italy, we found "LAKE".

Lake Garda is an enormous lake in the  north of Italy nestled into the foothills of the Alps. It is ringed with charming and ancient villages with castles and Renaissance villas and gorgeous vistas everywhere.

We boarded a boat at Sirmione, on the southern center of the lake, and headed out across the water, it's paddles churning port and starboard.

The water was clear and shaded teals. Sirmione stretches out on a peninsula into the lake.

Adventures with Huz!

 
Villages and villas range up the foothills. This one perched on it's own island, with a formidable cliff and wall at it's back.

This is the boat on which we chugged around this magical lake.

The town of Garda had a picturesque, lovely waterfront. Oh, to stroll to the shore of an evening for an aperitif and some boat watching.

The shore line had many swans. This one was curious about a child piling stones on the shoreline. The child, wisely, backed away and became still until the swan lost interest and moved back into the water.

The shore line had many children, playing and swimming, this group diving. Adults around were possibly observant but not certainly not censorious.

This toddler, sitting in the road, was easily charming passerby with conversation and offerings of grass pulled from the verge. I could see no adult nearby, indeed, no adult even interested in his whereabouts. But, also, no cars or vehicles at all. So, maybe toddlers hang out in the road here?

 Ahhh. A fine place to sit and wait for a boat.

Back on board, lake therapy providing some sparkle of sunset.

Just like Oklahoma...

Layers of Verona. Yestertoday.

I am enjoying a glass of wine and reminiscing about our days in Italy. Care to join? Get a glass of wine and sit down. This is Italy- it's always time for wine.
If you like, take a pause and go find a bottle of Aperol.  Add some Prosecco and a slice of arancia (orange) and you have a spritz!

Let's have a tour through the layers of Verona. Today's tour.

This four sided column stands sentry on the edge of the Piazza Brà. The column presides over an area that was once a market in the Middle Ages. The road beyond is the Via Mazzini, a marble street now lined with high end shopping retail. 1200 meets 2017.

The Astro Theater is a derelict find in Verona. It sits back a bit from the street, and is deserted and forgotten. Built in the Mussolini era- and I take it the Italians don't really love that history. 1940ish.

Pasticcino break! Dolce, desserts, are popular in Italy, but the king of all is gelato.

Layers here. This is from the Piazza Erbe (Herb square). The piazza is in the location of the original Roman Forum for the city. The ornate building in the photo is the Palazzo Maffei, built in the early 1600s by the wealthy Maffei family. In front is a tall column with the winged lion that is the symbol of St. Mark the apostle, who became the symbol of Venice (when his body was stolen from Egypt by some Venetian merchants and they brought Mark's bones back to Venice and presented him to the Doge- or ruler- and then the Basilica of St. Marks was built in Venice and the lion with wings became a "thing". As for why Mark is represented by a lion with wings? Seems a bit murky, but in the bible chapter written by the same, you can find clues. John the Baptist's voice as a lion in the wilderness....anyway that is what came about.)
The column has the Venetian symbol on it as in 1405, Verona gave itself to Venice to rule. But the lion didn't land up there until 1524, after a bout with Hapsburg rule. Lots of folks wanted Verona. Ever heard of Ostrogoths? Me neither, but even they had their turn. In the 400s.
You know who put their stamp on Verona and it's environs? The Scaligers. They were the big cheese family of the 12 and 1300s. They were the folks in charge during the Romeo and Juliet era, and they were prolific builders of stuff that made them more important.

This was their house "in town". They liked the "M" shaped merlons (that is the technical term for the pointy things on the top of their buildings and walls.) They also didn't care for the Pope (I have a feeling the Scaligeri motto was " Scaliger rules, (insert name here) drools!"). Anyhow, Dante Aligheri, famous poet of the Middle Ages was from Florence, and the Pope kicked him out. The Scaligers invited him to come stay in Verona.

 He thought about it for a minute and then figured "Why not?"
"The darkest places in hell are reserved for those who retain their neutrality in times of moral crisis."

Palazzo della Ragione, near the Scaligeri residence, has the only remaining Renaissance staircase in Verona. It was added in 1447 to the outside of the palace. Outside staircases could be grand, and not take up space inside the residence. We saw a sweet one in Venice (photos later), but still, a bummer on a cold day.

 Back in Piazza Erbe, the building in the center was where merchants would weigh heavy goods coming into the market, like wool. Middle Ages.

The Scaligeri rulers liked their power, a lot. They wanted to be important even when they were dead. So, they changed the laws about being able to bury folks inside the city walls, just for them. Then they made their own cemetery next to the town-palace and buried themselves WAY up high. So, you have to look up to even their bones. Then, they surrounded the tower-graves with an awesome fence.

 Roman theater. This is on the opposite side of town from the Roman Arena. The rabble rousers were kept outside of the walls of the Roman city of Verona, but the Theatre-goers were tucked inside, nice and safe. This is on the other side of the River Adige, built into the hillside, but still in the the protection of the walls. And theater works still happen today.

 I found two other traveling spouses, Matt and Steve, that had time for an adventure, and we set out in the morning for the Parco della Mura. This is the outer walls of Verona (Verona has A LOT of defensive wall layers!) that were originally started in the 12th century. They were built up into the 14th century. The walls surround huge bastions in spade shape with a gazillion little holes for shooting at people. It also incorporates a large moat system, and in the bastions are buried living quarters for the shooter types. We covered a few miles of these hills. The space outside of the bastions has largely been turned into sporting space. We counted 7 pools in the swimming complex, playgrounds and football fields (yes, soccer) surround the outer walls. But, of course, the sprawl of the modern city goes well beyond that now. The current walls are the ones that the Austrians reconstructed in their occupation of Verona, right after Napoleon signed Verona over in a treaty in 1797. The walls are incredible, in a dry stack of honey comb shaped stone.

Verona is known for it's consumption of Carni Cavallo- that is horse meat. This was a shop that sold horse and beef. We took a peek inside, and the horse meat was a very deep dark red color. I don't eat meat, so I can't tell you much more than that.

In our wanderings, we found a large area that was an Austrian Arsenal. The buildings were deserted and overgrown, but surprisingly, in the center was a thriving market.  Matt is in the center of the photo, looking at grapes. I bought an apple (DEE-VINE), for 0.20euro. This concerned the proprietor, who seemed confused by me wanting just one. I got to slap some Italian down on him. "Una mela, per favore. Si, una!" Steve is a great adventure companion because he talks to everyone. There was a stand selling goat cheeses, and we had a fine, if broken in language, conversation with the cute girl who ran the stand. The boys enjoyed a smaller smoked cheese from her stand. I think Steve may also have invited himself to come see her farm.

The Scaligeri Family didn't just have a in-town house. They also built a big old castle. Castelvecchio is on the river on the west side of Verona. They built this big defensive bridge across the river for them to escape should the town be overcome, or the townspeople become revolutionary. Matt and Steve climbed the battlements to look down the river. Note the "M" shaped merlons= Scaliger!

The castle was interesting, including the residence for the Scaligers, which was divided from the castle by a moat and wall and heavy draw bridge gate. They didn't even trust their own army.
I was fascinated by the still- workable drawbridge, and took photos of the weight system, enormous hinge hardware and the posts and chain system that when the weight is released, fly up into the channels in the bricks above. So cool.

Outside of the Castelvecchio is this old Roman Gate that used to lead to a bridge over the river.

Between the sides of the gate are the original stones, and you can still see the grooves made by thousands of carts passing through the gate a thousand years ago. 

Modern Verona full of 3-6 story buildings with little squares, fountains and gardens scattered here and there. The windows often have metal covers that close over the window instead of the older shutters. The metal covers are security, sound and light barriers. 

And modern Verona and ancient Verona weave together like entwined fingers of lovers, startling in the juxtaposition. Here, above this portal to a courtyard is a carved stone group of saints holding crosses and even a crucified Jesus. To the right is an old window frame. These ranged on either side of the portal, but they no longer held windows, instead they held advertisement for the store below, with half- nekkid models.

Layers of  Yestertoday.

Italy, just a touch.

About 4 years ago, I recall being behind the wheel, going somewhere typical, and thinking about what I would like to "do". This usually happens after brushing up against an Oprah moment- one of those overwhelming dictates about "discovering your driving force", or "living your passion". Where I start feeling inadequately self actualized, and too old to not have figured out what I'm passionate about already. This typically will spiral into a determination that I will eventually die not having fulfilled my potential. I'm a terrible Oprah. But, this once, I had a notion. A strong urge that spoke right up and said "I would like to travel more." So, I set that goal in my head. 

Within a week, I had three trips arrive on my horizon like ships sailing into Oprah Harbor. 

Huz called from work that day and said he was invited to speak in Utrecht, Netherlands,  next, Middlest told me she wanted to go to France with her high school class, and thereafter, Huz was asked to represent the University at a conference in Grenada. I asked to join in all three, and I knew Oprah would be proud of me. 

Since then, we have also been to Wrøclaw Poland,  Berlin Germany, back to France, Paris and Toulouse, and now Verona and Venice, Italy.

We stumbled in last night from Venice, our luggage still in Canada. I had a wonderful night's rest in my bed, although I kept thinking there was water just outside my window (Venice Disorder), until I woke up in the morning, refreshed and back to thinking about cases at work. Zoey Myers, and Maggie Largent, and that's the end of vacation. Today, we have fired up the chainsaw and nippers, having come home to a wonderfully tidy house and barn. Thank you Kara!!

Part of me feels like I should share some of the thousand photos I took in Italy. Part of me feels like I should just pick one a day until the next trip! I want to share all I have learned, and give all an armchair globe-trot to Italy. But, not sure anyone wants that. 

So, I shall pick a photo and see where it takes us. 

There ya go. I didn't know this would be the photo I would choose to give you, but somehow, it seems like starting at the very beginning is a very good place to start. I think to me the two words that I would use to describe what I experienced in Italy are "History" and " Details." The photo above illustrates both. 

In the Piazza Brà, the largest square in Verona, in a corner is this brass rectangle. Most people just walked over it with out noticing. But it was fascinating to me. This is the layout of the original Roman City. The River Adige is the wide band that makes a "U" shape from the top to the right of the rectangle. the raised lines to the left are the wall. They had to wall in the area to the left of the river, as that is high ground- a spot to control if you want to keep your city safe. The biggest square in the center of the grid is the Piazza Erbe now. And what is now the Piazza Brà that holds the large first century Roman Arena was on the outside of the city walls on the far right. It is the oval closest to Huz' feet. The arena was out there because you don't want rowdy folks in the city. 

The Arena as it stands today. The outer wall on the left in the photo is mostly gone now, but used to surround the arena and added much more seating. I think they said 30,000 people! Today, the arena is still used. There has been an opera series happening for 100 years in the summers- the last opera night was the evening before we arrived. But you can still go to a rock concert where they once had gladiator contests. 

Many of these Roman layers are still quite part of this vibrant city today. I leaned my body against a huge Roman gate- the Porta Borsa- and touched a thousand years ago. 

At that time, just outside this ancient entrance to Roman Verona were tombstones. Bodies were not buried within the city walls, so the outside of the walls were packed with graves. 

Here, a lady sits in a cafe, with her cappucino and cigarettes, and her back right up to a 1000+year old dead person. Life here is interwoven with moments like this. 

Okay, now for a photo or two to illustrate word #2- "Details. "

In the 16th century, Verona was known as the "Painted City". Today, many of the buildings are painted in yellow ochre, deep red and sunny orange. They are brick, with stucco over the brick. But in the height of the Renaissance, the buildings were painted with vibrant colors in scenes and designs. Here and there in the city, you can still see faded reminders of this time.

It may not be Revalations "Streets of Gold", but there are streets of marble. There is marble everywhere, some in exotic patterns and colors. In one church there was a marble of mustard yellow and dark grey. Details are everywhere. 

One more detail. Food matters. The food was abundant and mostly amazing. But this was probably the best thing I tasted on the trip. It is an "aubergine cappucino" served at a restaurant called Flora in Verona. It was my Prima, or first dish, and they did something divine with eggplant that was well beyond my understanding of the capabilities of the fruit. It was topped with a foam and basil cream with pignoli. This mug of happiness is worth going to Italy. Also in the photo are soft, chewy curcumin and beet breads- both senza glutina, and succo, or juice that was watermelon and blood orange. You can also see a touch of wine, and the tip of Huz's prima piatto. But mine was the best. 

Okay. That was today's offering. Back to taming the farm.