Layers of Verona. Yestertoday.

I am enjoying a glass of wine and reminiscing about our days in Italy. Care to join? Get a glass of wine and sit down. This is Italy- it's always time for wine.
If you like, take a pause and go find a bottle of Aperol.  Add some Prosecco and a slice of arancia (orange) and you have a spritz!

Let's have a tour through the layers of Verona. Today's tour.

This four sided column stands sentry on the edge of the Piazza Brà. The column presides over an area that was once a market in the Middle Ages. The road beyond is the Via Mazzini, a marble street now lined with high end shopping retail. 1200 meets 2017.

The Astro Theater is a derelict find in Verona. It sits back a bit from the street, and is deserted and forgotten. Built in the Mussolini era- and I take it the Italians don't really love that history. 1940ish.

Pasticcino break! Dolce, desserts, are popular in Italy, but the king of all is gelato.

Layers here. This is from the Piazza Erbe (Herb square). The piazza is in the location of the original Roman Forum for the city. The ornate building in the photo is the Palazzo Maffei, built in the early 1600s by the wealthy Maffei family. In front is a tall column with the winged lion that is the symbol of St. Mark the apostle, who became the symbol of Venice (when his body was stolen from Egypt by some Venetian merchants and they brought Mark's bones back to Venice and presented him to the Doge- or ruler- and then the Basilica of St. Marks was built in Venice and the lion with wings became a "thing". As for why Mark is represented by a lion with wings? Seems a bit murky, but in the bible chapter written by the same, you can find clues. John the Baptist's voice as a lion in the wilderness....anyway that is what came about.)
The column has the Venetian symbol on it as in 1405, Verona gave itself to Venice to rule. But the lion didn't land up there until 1524, after a bout with Hapsburg rule. Lots of folks wanted Verona. Ever heard of Ostrogoths? Me neither, but even they had their turn. In the 400s.
You know who put their stamp on Verona and it's environs? The Scaligers. They were the big cheese family of the 12 and 1300s. They were the folks in charge during the Romeo and Juliet era, and they were prolific builders of stuff that made them more important.

This was their house "in town". They liked the "M" shaped merlons (that is the technical term for the pointy things on the top of their buildings and walls.) They also didn't care for the Pope (I have a feeling the Scaligeri motto was " Scaliger rules, (insert name here) drools!"). Anyhow, Dante Aligheri, famous poet of the Middle Ages was from Florence, and the Pope kicked him out. The Scaligers invited him to come stay in Verona.

 He thought about it for a minute and then figured "Why not?"
"The darkest places in hell are reserved for those who retain their neutrality in times of moral crisis."

Palazzo della Ragione, near the Scaligeri residence, has the only remaining Renaissance staircase in Verona. It was added in 1447 to the outside of the palace. Outside staircases could be grand, and not take up space inside the residence. We saw a sweet one in Venice (photos later), but still, a bummer on a cold day.

 Back in Piazza Erbe, the building in the center was where merchants would weigh heavy goods coming into the market, like wool. Middle Ages.

The Scaligeri rulers liked their power, a lot. They wanted to be important even when they were dead. So, they changed the laws about being able to bury folks inside the city walls, just for them. Then they made their own cemetery next to the town-palace and buried themselves WAY up high. So, you have to look up to even their bones. Then, they surrounded the tower-graves with an awesome fence.

 Roman theater. This is on the opposite side of town from the Roman Arena. The rabble rousers were kept outside of the walls of the Roman city of Verona, but the Theatre-goers were tucked inside, nice and safe. This is on the other side of the River Adige, built into the hillside, but still in the the protection of the walls. And theater works still happen today.

 I found two other traveling spouses, Matt and Steve, that had time for an adventure, and we set out in the morning for the Parco della Mura. This is the outer walls of Verona (Verona has A LOT of defensive wall layers!) that were originally started in the 12th century. They were built up into the 14th century. The walls surround huge bastions in spade shape with a gazillion little holes for shooting at people. It also incorporates a large moat system, and in the bastions are buried living quarters for the shooter types. We covered a few miles of these hills. The space outside of the bastions has largely been turned into sporting space. We counted 7 pools in the swimming complex, playgrounds and football fields (yes, soccer) surround the outer walls. But, of course, the sprawl of the modern city goes well beyond that now. The current walls are the ones that the Austrians reconstructed in their occupation of Verona, right after Napoleon signed Verona over in a treaty in 1797. The walls are incredible, in a dry stack of honey comb shaped stone.

Verona is known for it's consumption of Carni Cavallo- that is horse meat. This was a shop that sold horse and beef. We took a peek inside, and the horse meat was a very deep dark red color. I don't eat meat, so I can't tell you much more than that.

In our wanderings, we found a large area that was an Austrian Arsenal. The buildings were deserted and overgrown, but surprisingly, in the center was a thriving market.  Matt is in the center of the photo, looking at grapes. I bought an apple (DEE-VINE), for 0.20euro. This concerned the proprietor, who seemed confused by me wanting just one. I got to slap some Italian down on him. "Una mela, per favore. Si, una!" Steve is a great adventure companion because he talks to everyone. There was a stand selling goat cheeses, and we had a fine, if broken in language, conversation with the cute girl who ran the stand. The boys enjoyed a smaller smoked cheese from her stand. I think Steve may also have invited himself to come see her farm.

The Scaligeri Family didn't just have a in-town house. They also built a big old castle. Castelvecchio is on the river on the west side of Verona. They built this big defensive bridge across the river for them to escape should the town be overcome, or the townspeople become revolutionary. Matt and Steve climbed the battlements to look down the river. Note the "M" shaped merlons= Scaliger!

The castle was interesting, including the residence for the Scaligers, which was divided from the castle by a moat and wall and heavy draw bridge gate. They didn't even trust their own army.
I was fascinated by the still- workable drawbridge, and took photos of the weight system, enormous hinge hardware and the posts and chain system that when the weight is released, fly up into the channels in the bricks above. So cool.

Outside of the Castelvecchio is this old Roman Gate that used to lead to a bridge over the river.

Between the sides of the gate are the original stones, and you can still see the grooves made by thousands of carts passing through the gate a thousand years ago. 

Modern Verona full of 3-6 story buildings with little squares, fountains and gardens scattered here and there. The windows often have metal covers that close over the window instead of the older shutters. The metal covers are security, sound and light barriers. 

And modern Verona and ancient Verona weave together like entwined fingers of lovers, startling in the juxtaposition. Here, above this portal to a courtyard is a carved stone group of saints holding crosses and even a crucified Jesus. To the right is an old window frame. These ranged on either side of the portal, but they no longer held windows, instead they held advertisement for the store below, with half- nekkid models.

Layers of  Yestertoday.

Italy, just a touch.

About 4 years ago, I recall being behind the wheel, going somewhere typical, and thinking about what I would like to "do". This usually happens after brushing up against an Oprah moment- one of those overwhelming dictates about "discovering your driving force", or "living your passion". Where I start feeling inadequately self actualized, and too old to not have figured out what I'm passionate about already. This typically will spiral into a determination that I will eventually die not having fulfilled my potential. I'm a terrible Oprah. But, this once, I had a notion. A strong urge that spoke right up and said "I would like to travel more." So, I set that goal in my head. 

Within a week, I had three trips arrive on my horizon like ships sailing into Oprah Harbor. 

Huz called from work that day and said he was invited to speak in Utrecht, Netherlands,  next, Middlest told me she wanted to go to France with her high school class, and thereafter, Huz was asked to represent the University at a conference in Grenada. I asked to join in all three, and I knew Oprah would be proud of me. 

Since then, we have also been to Wrøclaw Poland,  Berlin Germany, back to France, Paris and Toulouse, and now Verona and Venice, Italy.

We stumbled in last night from Venice, our luggage still in Canada. I had a wonderful night's rest in my bed, although I kept thinking there was water just outside my window (Venice Disorder), until I woke up in the morning, refreshed and back to thinking about cases at work. Zoey Myers, and Maggie Largent, and that's the end of vacation. Today, we have fired up the chainsaw and nippers, having come home to a wonderfully tidy house and barn. Thank you Kara!!

Part of me feels like I should share some of the thousand photos I took in Italy. Part of me feels like I should just pick one a day until the next trip! I want to share all I have learned, and give all an armchair globe-trot to Italy. But, not sure anyone wants that. 

So, I shall pick a photo and see where it takes us. 

There ya go. I didn't know this would be the photo I would choose to give you, but somehow, it seems like starting at the very beginning is a very good place to start. I think to me the two words that I would use to describe what I experienced in Italy are "History" and " Details." The photo above illustrates both. 

In the Piazza Brà, the largest square in Verona, in a corner is this brass rectangle. Most people just walked over it with out noticing. But it was fascinating to me. This is the layout of the original Roman City. The River Adige is the wide band that makes a "U" shape from the top to the right of the rectangle. the raised lines to the left are the wall. They had to wall in the area to the left of the river, as that is high ground- a spot to control if you want to keep your city safe. The biggest square in the center of the grid is the Piazza Erbe now. And what is now the Piazza Brà that holds the large first century Roman Arena was on the outside of the city walls on the far right. It is the oval closest to Huz' feet. The arena was out there because you don't want rowdy folks in the city. 

The Arena as it stands today. The outer wall on the left in the photo is mostly gone now, but used to surround the arena and added much more seating. I think they said 30,000 people! Today, the arena is still used. There has been an opera series happening for 100 years in the summers- the last opera night was the evening before we arrived. But you can still go to a rock concert where they once had gladiator contests. 

Many of these Roman layers are still quite part of this vibrant city today. I leaned my body against a huge Roman gate- the Porta Borsa- and touched a thousand years ago. 

At that time, just outside this ancient entrance to Roman Verona were tombstones. Bodies were not buried within the city walls, so the outside of the walls were packed with graves. 

Here, a lady sits in a cafe, with her cappucino and cigarettes, and her back right up to a 1000+year old dead person. Life here is interwoven with moments like this. 

Okay, now for a photo or two to illustrate word #2- "Details. "

In the 16th century, Verona was known as the "Painted City". Today, many of the buildings are painted in yellow ochre, deep red and sunny orange. They are brick, with stucco over the brick. But in the height of the Renaissance, the buildings were painted with vibrant colors in scenes and designs. Here and there in the city, you can still see faded reminders of this time.

It may not be Revalations "Streets of Gold", but there are streets of marble. There is marble everywhere, some in exotic patterns and colors. In one church there was a marble of mustard yellow and dark grey. Details are everywhere. 

One more detail. Food matters. The food was abundant and mostly amazing. But this was probably the best thing I tasted on the trip. It is an "aubergine cappucino" served at a restaurant called Flora in Verona. It was my Prima, or first dish, and they did something divine with eggplant that was well beyond my understanding of the capabilities of the fruit. It was topped with a foam and basil cream with pignoli. This mug of happiness is worth going to Italy. Also in the photo are soft, chewy curcumin and beet breads- both senza glutina, and succo, or juice that was watermelon and blood orange. You can also see a touch of wine, and the tip of Huz's prima piatto. But mine was the best. 

Okay. That was today's offering. Back to taming the farm. 

USPC Championships- Champions.

As a member of the United States Pony Club, I stand for the best in sportsmanship as well as in horsemanship. I shall compete for the enjoyment of the game well played and take winning or losing in stride, remembering that without good manners and good temper, sport loses its cause for being. I shall endeavor to maintain the best tradition of the ancient and noble skill of horsemanship, always treating my horse with consideration due a partner.”

This is the Pony Club Pledge.

I have been a member, or a volunteer for the United States Pony Club for most of my life. I joined as a child, and it continues to impress me in many ways 40 years on.

I am thankful that it is an opportunity I had, and I am glad I pursued the opportunity for my kids, albeit too late for my Eldest. It is a commitment. But, as with other great commitments in life, great effort brings great reward.
This week, our Youngest was able to experience some of the best in sportsmanship as well as horsemanship as he represented our Tri-State Region at USPC National Championships Festival.

This experience is offered every three years, with Eastern and Western US Championships held on the other years.
More than 1000 of the best young riders from around the US travel to Kentucky Horse Park in Lexington, KY for the Championships Competition. They have been selected to compete by being the best in their Region in their discipline. There are 42 "Regions" in the US, and 41 were represented with teams at Championships, including Alaska. I believe Hawaii Region was the only region that did not send competitors.

Opening Ceremonies were held in the large Rolex Stadium with a Parade of Teams. During the Opening Ceremonies, the Pony Club Pledge was read aloud. I have heard it dozens of times, but this time I heard the echoes of the PC Pledge all week long, in my head. Bits of the pledge would jump out to me as I watched our brightest young riders fulfill this Pledge. Making sure, day after hot tiring day, that sport did not lose its cause for being. 

 Our Tri-State Region competitors had a tropical thing going for the week, which was appropriate as the heat index climbed over 100 degrees! Youngest is in the dark blue ball cap with the lei around the brim.

 Hot as blazes, but sure enough, it didn't take long for Youngest to get a kid on his shoulders. Little kids love him.

 I love this shot of the Kentucky Horse Park Color Guard carrying the US Flag, Kentucky Flag and Pony Club Flag.

The next morning the riding competitions began. Seven different disciplines going on at one time means a busy day of riding for competitors, and watching for parents (and volunteering....)
Last year, Youngest made qualifying for National Championships in Dressage his goal, and he pursued it with dedication. He a Zac have worked hard to become a formidable team!

I stand for the best in sportsmanship-

The kids compete on teams of 5 (for the most part). There are four riders and a Stable Manager who helps the competitors in the barns. The team that works as a unit does the best in the competition- and has the most fun! This means helping one another care for their animals, tack and stable area as well as cheer each other on, and push hydration!

Above ,Youngest helps team mate Val G. before her 3rd Level Test 2 ride begins to kick off his team in competition.

Take winning or losing in stride-

While Youngest and team get going in the Dressage Complex, other competitions begin elsewhere on the grounds. In the Rolex Stadium, Kaylee VW was getting the dressage portion of the Eventing discipline started for our team. And what a start! She had an incredible score (Eventers- think LOW 20's- gotta brag a bit) to put the Tri-State Team in strong standing. Her test was seamless and breathtaking- talented.  Unfortunately, the next day,  in Cross Country, they would have a mishap and our Kaylee would get launched into the air, and land on her head, ending the competition for her and spending the day at the trauma center at UK. She got the all-clear on her CT Scan, but is a tad...sore. And blessed to be okay. The sport of Eventing comes with great highs and low lows. I held her hand while they put her on the back board with a neck brace, and told her she was going to be fine. She smiled with tears, asked me to make sure her teammate got their shared Eventing watch, and off she went in the ambulance. Her horse was taken by a competitor from a different team that had come when she fell. He was cooled out, returned to his stall, poulticed, wrapped and tucked in safe and sound. Kaylee never had to question that. This is Pony Club.

I stand for the best in sportsmanship as well as horsemanship-

Before any ride in a Pony Club Competition, each horse is presented to a Veterinarian and the Ground Jury for a jog inspection to make sure they are sound. And, before your first ride you also present your horse to the Horse Management Judges for a Turnout Inspection. This is putting your best foot forward! Horses are clean. Spotlessly so, feet cleaned out, tails without a piece of dander. The horse should be this clean because they have a regular, daily grooming, not just a clean up for competition. The tack is clean, soft, supple and fit properly to the horse, with polished metal that shows continual care in use. The rider presents in formal or informal attire (at Championships everyone is in formal attire) with polished boots, clean and neat clothes, a belt, properly tied stock or necktie (for men), ASTM/SEI approved helmet, medical armband (worn at all times at all Pony Club functions) and polished Pony Club Pin. It is an effort for all the competitors, but they know how to look professional! The judges make a determination of how well they turn themselves out according to the Standard for their Certification. They can meet the standard, exceed the standard or "does not meet standard" in multiple areas.
Youngest and Zac looked amazing! And, they not only met the standard they left Turnout Inspection with 6 "Exceeds Standards". Remarkable.

On the way to inspection, a swarm of beetles?? found Zac, and followed him through the inspection, down to the Dressage Complex, through his entire ride and back to the barn. Their spot-on Stable manager, McKenna Z. tried to deter the pests, and even raced back to the barns for a different type of fly-spray to see if that would work. Sadly, no. A few other things happened to rattle the pair as they started their first ride. This was their Musical Freestyle, traditionally ridden last, but in a Championship style curveball, the First Level competitors rode them right off the bat!

Their freestyle was to music from the Jungle Book, and suited the pair well. Although it was not their best test, they managed. I could see the pony steadying the boy every so often during the test.Youngest's horse,  Zac, has the ability to moderate his level to the expectation of the rider, but also, he's a performer. You could see him trying to improve the performance. He loves his applause!
Had the competition been switched around and the freestyle ridden last, it would've been a wowser. As it was, they still finished in the top five for First Level.

 This is a typical photo of the ride. The rider is stiff, the movement lacks energy and flow through the body, there is no sparkle!

But with the first ride out of the way, the pair came out the next day for their first ride with their polish back in place.

Preparing to enter the arena, after the bell, you can see the sparkle!

They sparkled through their leg yields and extensions, the free-walk and circles.  They performed.

 I shall compete for the enjoyment of the game well-played-

Well done, boys! When the scores came in, they had the top score. 

Their cheering section enlarged on the second day of competition, as Huz arrived to watch, and also horsewomen and friends, Dr. Vicki and "Tary Mike".  

Later in the afternoon, they had to ride their third test, this time First Level Test 3. They had not lost their composure and rode a lovely test. Again, a fine score.

Meanwhile, their teammates are also performing well. Val G. rode her Third Level Musical Freestyle with flair and beauty, earning a big score. 

I will point out that this is National Championships, and there are six dressage judges in the various boxes judging the tests by these kids. And they are some of the most experienced and high ranking judges in the country. These are judges that judge at the Olympics, the World Equestrian Games and Pan-Am Games. They are judging these kids from that perspective. This means the scores are lower than some of these kids might be used to in regular competition. But, it is equitable. All the competitors are judged just as intensely. So, a big score here might have been average elsewhere. That happens, I suppose, when you hit the big time!

Three tests down, and one to go. The team is doing very well, and is hovering around the top of the teams that ride First Level and higher. But it is hot, and humid. Many of the horses are struggling with the effort, and in dressage, that shows loud and clear. 

The boys show up to ride their last test, First Level Test 3, for Axel Steiner, "S" Judge, with 50 years of professional judging experience. YIKES.

They entered with purpose, straight and forward. 

 They perform a beautiful test, with energy and precision- I think the best yet!

Right down to the final, perfectly square halt and salute! 

Always treating my horse with the consideration due a partner-

Your job in the ring is done, but what a lovely job, boys!

Now, to join the team at the barn to take care of Zac and get ready to pack up in preparation for awards!  (Did I mention that in Pony Club parents are not allowed in the barns at all during the entire competition? And, that they are not allowed to coach their kids? They are allowed to take photos, and tell them how wonderful the ride was. A resounding "WELL DONE!" That is all. I love this.)

The awards ceremony was held in the steamy Covered Arena. The first awards were the Horse Management Awards. The teams are given penalty points throughout the week for falling short of a HM expectation. Youngest's team had 5 penalty points for the week. Youngest had none for himself, and was awarded a certificate for having a perfect turnout. The team placed third in the country in Horse Management! The top team had two points for the whole week.

Then, they started the Team Awards. All the teams were divided into two competitions, Training Level Dressage, and the First Level and Up Dressage.
Youngest was on a First Level and Up team, and, in an incredible show of sportsmanship and well as horsemanship, became the Champions of Championships, placing first in the country.

 The NUMBER ONE TEAM! 

I shall compete for the enjoyment of the game well played and take winning or losing in stride, remembering that without good manners and good temper, sport loses its cause for being. 

And to top off that incredible win, Youngest and Zac earned the sixth highest score at National Championships in a First Level and Up Musical Freestyle. I am so proud of their hard work!
(I have to add another brag here, about team mate Val G. who had the highest score in Musical Freestyles with her Third Level ride!)

Our First Place Team with their Gold Medals, and Ribbons.

And some of our winners in dressage, eventing and show jump. A strong showing for the Tri State Region!

I shall endeavor to maintain the best tradition of the ancient and noble skill of horsemanship.

Boy, am I proud of these kids!

Pony Club Camp '17- pics of a perfect pair!

We are now home from a fantastic week of learning and fun with friends in our excellent Pony Club, Hunter's Run.

I had enough time to sit down for lunch today, so that means some time to look at photos! I picked out a few to share with you all, because I enjoyed them.

Here follows my "big on photos, small on words" blog. Much preferred, I'm sure for some.

  

Handsome pair.

The boys are refining their working trot and lengthened trot. 

 I love this one, Youngest is really "getting" the leg yields!

Photo selected purely because of the long flowy mane. Happy....just happy. 

  All 4 feet in the air! The extended canter comes alive.

 Top notch instructor (and rider!) Mimi Combs giving a critique for his "fixit" dressage ride.

A biggest to smallest selection of some of my favorite kids in the world! Preparing to play a (somewhat violent) game. 

Game involves pine boughs, balloons, and a lot of "HI-YAH!!"

Youngest and his team were victorious, with Youngest being last remaining player- but their "homage" of whacking him with pine boughs of victory may have gone unappreciated. 

Now, a few photos in flight...

The boys enter the grid, nice balance!

Different photo, I swear! But they look just as tidy, if maybe a bit early on the spot. But Youngest is learning his distances and how to wait, and they are getting pretty handy over fences.

I didn't get many photos on cross country. No worries, they had good fun anyway. Both love it!

The End- you're welcome Friends of Photos.....