Playtime, strictly defined, ended for Huz, and he had to go off and be professional. Fortunately, this was not one of my requirements. In talking to the hotel staff the first day, one had mentioned there would be a trip to the spice market the next morning. So, I made my way to the lobby in the a.m. to get a lift. I soon noticed there was but one taxi-bus and lots of people. Also, there was a pretty and official looking woman with a clipboard checking off names. I sidled closer, and found that you were supposed to reserve a spot on the bus. I had not. So, she said to wait and if there was room they would squeeze me on. And squeeze they did. They measured my rump and found just enough space if I straddled the gear shift and sat partly on Howard from Winnipeg's lap. Howard was a good sport and we were off! I had thought ( in my ignorance and rudimentary research) that The Spice Market was located in Grand Anse, the beach area where we'd spent the previous day. I was pleased to find we were headed to the downtown St. George's Farmer's Market, traditionally held on Saturdays, but since Saturday was the official celebration of Grenada's Independence, the market was to be held on Friday. Emory, our driver, and my close partner in the drive to St. George's let us out near the market and bid us to be back by noon. After standing on the street a moment, another passenger approached to see if I wanted a shopping buddy. Perfect! So, Judy, from Pennsylvania and I headed off into St. George's. Judy is the mother of the Veterinary School representative from UPenn, and her daughter and my Huz, unbeknownst to us, had also joined forces and lunched together at the meeting!
Judy and I found the spice market easily.
We walked up the crowded street to the top of the market, and back down the other side. Fruits and vegetables, handmade goods, clothing and lots of spices are available. The lady in this picture wearing the orange shirt is selling spice "necklaces". They are sold almost everywhere we went and are made up of all the spices found on the island. You aren't meant to wear them but hang them in your kitchen to make it smell nice. And they do smell divine!
A moment here to talk about the people of Grenada, as I found them to be. I mentioned in Installment 1 this would come later.
There is no doubt that Grenadians make a small wage. I asked, and was told the average starting income is $250 US a month. Imported goods are very expensive, so food grown on the island is the most affordable for the residents. They are a very helpful people. At the market, I asked a lot of questions, and everyone took the time to patiently explain answers. The residents speak, as I was told, Creole, which is mostly English, just with less syllables and really fast. I wasn't good at catching everything, but a passerby was always happy to translate. You get the feeling that they all want you to enjoy the island and your experience. I never felt unsafe or wary. Yes,sometimes people are approaching you to sell you something, but not in that shifty-eyed way that makes you feel like moving on. I enjoyed my interactions with each person I encountered on my visit, and happily chatted with strangers on the street.
At this fellow's pick up truck, a line of natives waited for a fill up. Curious, Judy and I stopped to watch what he was doing. Soon, a group of older ladies was explaining the process of getting coconut water. They bring an empty bottle or cup and he has this machete with which he spins and chops the top off of the young, green coconut and pours the clear water into the vessel. If asked, he also whams the coconut in half and scoops out the moist, soft coconut for you to eat. The ladies convinced Judy to give it a try. I would've jumped at the chance, but have developed an inconvenient allergy to coconut and had to decline. Judy assured me I was definitely missing out!
I had brought along a burlap bag, which I proceeded to fill with spices and chocolate- also a native crop.
Many sellers explained how the spices were harvested, and how they are best used, sharing recipes and suggesting preparations for food. How to cook dasheen, and callaloo and cassava. The best way to grind mace and cook goat (not necessary knowledge for me, but interesting). I slowly filled my bag with amazing smells! This picture has baggies of cloves, ground cinnamon, cinnamon bark or sticks, and small bunches of thyme. Also, spiced candied fruits nuts and sweets.
When we finished at the market, we wandered towards the water and into a shopping area that is evidently designed purely for tourists. There is a direct flow from the cruise ships into the shops so you can buy your "Grenada!" tee shirt and shot glass, and then back onto the boat. We breezed through this area and out the other side into the sunshine. Above the parking area loomed a ruins and we moved towards the base of the hill, soon finding a staircase.
It sat near the Sendall tunnel that connects the harbor side of St. George's to the ocean side. Fort George sits atop the tunnel and the hill that overlooks both sides. In this photo are also the little buses you see everywhere. They are both bus and taxi. Grenadians drive on the left side of the road (British colony style) and their road rules are, well, loose. I don't recommend trying to drive here. You can also see on the concrete wall, shells. These are for sale, and a man sitting on a bucket in the shade told us all about them. The large conch sells are the least expensive and most common. It is from these that they harvest "lambie", the meat of the conch. He sold some shells to Judy. He also interpreted for an older lady who sold me a bag of "French Cashews" . These are fruit that is ripe now, red on the outside, white soft flesh, a slightly perfumed taste and a large pit inside. My lunch.
Judy and I set out for the stairs.
At the top, the views delivered. Judy and I exchanged cameras and my proof I was on the trip, not just my camera.
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| The mouth of St. George's Inner Harbor |
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| The west coast of St. George's |
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| The Carenage of St. George's Inner Harbor |
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While exploring Fort George, we could hear from the market area, a great host of drums. A parade had begun! We were lucky enough to be in Grenada for the 41st celebration of Grenadian Independence. The sound of the drums traveled up the hill and we could catch glimpses of the parade in the street. We finished up our perusal of the Fort and headed down to see if we could catch up to the parade.
On the way down we passed the Presbyterian Church. A ruin from Hurricane Ivan of 2004.
We could hear the drums and the children as we wound down the hill, and just caught the end of it going past. It was the Children's Parade. All the children were in the national colors dancing and marching past.
In fact, many of the people were in their finest all weekend. Handmade colorful dresses in the national colors of red, yellow and green, Men in shirts, hats, pants, even red, yellow and green checked gloves. Hair was dyed in the bright colors and the flag flew everywhere. The people are very proud of their independence and their country.
The next morning, on February 7th, dignitaries from all over joined the population in the National Cricket Stadium for military parades and celebratory speeches.
This is the crowd going into the stadium.
Businesses are mostly closed for the day, and everyone makes room for the national dish- Oil Down.
I can discuss that in the food installment of Going to Grenada!
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